Frequently Asked Questions

Often yes in the attic, especially when ducts and the air handler are up there, and nearly always on metal shops and barns. On a simple attic floor with no ducts, sealing the leaks and blowing in loose fill can deliver most of the comfort for less money. We price both where both would work.

In Lubbock homes, open-cell is common under the roof deck and in wall cavities because it seals air well and costs less per square foot. Closed-cell is the usual choice on steel buildings and in tight spaces that need more R-value per inch. The quote names the foam for each area.

HomeGuide's national figures put installed spray foam at $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot and a foamed attic at $3,000 to $8,000. Area, foam type, thickness, access and any removal move the total. The written estimate after our visit is the price.

Foam itself is not food for mold, but mold can grow on wood or drywall that stays wet. That happens when foam covers an active roof or plumbing leak, or when moisture is trapped by the wrong foam in the wrong place. We look for leaks and damp framing before we spray, and leaks get fixed first.

Yes, two-part foam kits and cans of gap sealant are sold at home stores, and the cans are handy for small gaps. Large areas are harder: the chemicals need the right temperature and mix, thickness is hard to control, and the job calls for protective gear and ventilation. For an attic, shop or roof, a professional rig gives a more even result.

Spray foam is a two-part system made by chemical and building-products companies, and installers buy it under various brand names. What matters more for your house is the type (open or closed cell), the thickness and how it is installed. We list the foam type and thickness on your quote and can tell you the product we plan to use.

The City of Lubbock's 2024 energy code ordinance lists R-38 for ceilings in new work. For existing homes, ENERGY STAR recommends R-49 for an uninsulated Zone 3 attic. Towns in Hockley and Lamb counties are in Zone 4B, where ENERGY STAR suggests R-60. Check with your building office before a remodel.

Air sealing helps. Dust gets in where outside air leaks in, through gaps in the attic floor, around doors and at plumbing and wiring holes. Foam fills those gaps and blocks air in the same layer, so less unfiltered air is pulled into the house when the wind blows.

Usually, when it is sprayed deep enough under the roof deck and there is no leak. It seals air well and costs less than closed-cell. We size the depth to the R-value target and write both on the quote.

HomeGuide advises 24 hours or more. For a detached shop or barn, the household may not need to leave. We confirm timing for your job.

A tighter house is the goal, but fuel-burning appliances and fresh air still need attention. We look at water heaters, furnaces and bath fans on the visit and tell you if anything needs a change.

It helps a lot. Dust enters where outside air leaks in, and foam fills those leaks in the same layer that insulates.

If the ducts and air handler are in the attic, foam on the roof deck brings them inside, which helps in summer. If they are not, sealing the floor and blowing in loose fill is usually cheaper. We price both when both would work.

ENERGY STAR recommends R-49 for an uninsulated Zone 3 attic, or adding R-38 over 3 to 4 inches. In Zone 4B counties to the northwest, it suggests R-60 for a bare attic.

Usually yes, if the old insulation is dry and clean. If it is wet, soiled or full of debris, removing it first is better. Air sealing still comes before the new layer.

Sealing the attic floor cuts the air leaks that pull dusty attic air into the rooms below, especially on windy days.

Often, if the existing roof is dry, firmly attached and in decent shape. Wet or failed areas must be removed first. We check before quoting.

The coating takes the hit. Hail can dent or puncture it, so a foam roof should be checked after a storm, and small damage is usually sealed and recoated.

HomeAdvisor says foam roofs typically need recoating every 10 to 15 years, depending on the coating and exposure.

Yes. Closed-cell foam is rated at R-5 to R-7 per inch by HomeGuide, so the roof layer also insulates the building.

It depends on how you heat or cool the building. Closed-cell at R-5 to R-7 per inch gets solid insulation in a couple of inches. We size it to your use and write the thickness on the quote.

Closed-cell foam on the underside of the roof keeps warm, moist air off the cold steel, which is what causes the drip. Any roof leaks must be fixed first.

It depends on where the building is and how it is used. Inside city limits, or with living space or public use, check with the building office first.

Yes. Living space in a steel building is a good fit for foam, but it needs the covering the code requires for occupied space. We explain that on the quote.

Yes. Dense-pack cellulose or fiberglass is blown in through small holes, then the holes are plugged and patched.

The City of Lubbock's 2024 energy code ordinance lists R-13 for wood-frame walls in new work. A full 2x4 cavity of open-cell foam exceeds that.

Foam is best when the walls are open. In finished walls, dense-pack is usually the practical choice because it does not require opening the wall.

Yes. Filling cavities with foam or dense-pack reduces sound passing through walls.

Not always. If it is dry and clean, new insulation can go on top. If it is soiled, wet, moldy or crushed, removal is the better choice.

Many single-family attics are cleared in a day, with sealing and new insulation the same day or the next, depending on size and access.

We do not disturb it. Have it tested by a qualified lab, and if it contains asbestos, use a licensed abatement company.

The material goes through a hose to a bag or container outside. We cover the path to the hatch and clean up when we are done.